Why Is Everyone Talking About Peptides? Science & Benefits

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A lot of people talk about them, and most, if not all, brands advertise their peptide products. Before the arrival of growth factors on everyone’s lips (although GFs are a form of peptide, but that’s a topic for another episode), peptides were on everyone’s lips. Although still very popular, they remain somewhat mysterious, at least to me, so I decided to dive deeper. What are peptides, and what role do they play in skincare? Here’s a quick round-up.

What Are Peptides?

Peptides are tiny chains of amino acids found naturally in your skin. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin. When several amino acids join together, they form a peptide and send messages to our skin cells to promote collagen synthesis. That’s why, in the context of skincare, peptides are celebrated for their anti-aging benefits and can easily be combined with other anti-aging ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and antioxidants like vitamin C.

Are There Multiple Types of Peptides?

Yes! Peptides can be categorized into different groups depending on the role they play:

  • Signal peptides: Like growth factors, these peptides act as chemical messengers to send signals within the body. Some promote collagen and elastin synthesis while others modulate melanin production, enhancing skin tone and texture.
  • Carrier peptides: These peptides play a crucial role in skin health by transporting vital minerals, like copper, to skin cells. They will support your skin repair, nourishment while stimulating collagen and elastin production,
  • Neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptide: Mimicking the effects of Botox (you heard right!), this category of peptides prevent muscle contractions and reduce fine lines, leading to a smoother appearance.
  • Enzyme-inhibitor peptides: These peptides fight enzymes responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin, which helps maintain firmness, elasticity, and promotes moisture retention.

In other words, peptides are like superheroes, fighting signs of aging and ensuring that your skincare products effectively reach your skin cells. And if that wasn’t cool enough, some brands use multifunctional peptides—blends that address multiple skin needs at once.

Multifunctional peptides refer to a single peptide designed to boost collagen, hydration, skin barrier health, and reduce fine lines. In contrast, multi-peptides are a mix of different peptides in a formula to target various concerns. Ultimately, they would also help target multiple concerns at once. Another subtle difference, as often in skincare.

Why Does Your Skin Need Peptides?

By now, you might have guessed it: whatever your skin concerns, there seems to be a peptide for it. If we put the scientific lingo aside, you could summarise peptides' benefits like this:

  • Collagen Production
  • Barrier Support
  • Hydration Boost
  • Inflammation Reduction

Peptides are suitable for most skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin, since they do not clog pores. They can also be a great alternative to retinol/tretinoin products for those who can’t tolerate them.

Can You Pair Peptides With Other Actives?

Absolutely! HA, ceramides, niacinamide, retinol, antioxidant actives like ferulic acid… You name it! As always, you might need to incorporate those actives gradually to avoid irritation.

What about Vitamin C? As with growth factors Vitamin C can be a bit more challenging to pair with other actives but not impossible. You can use both Vitamin C products and peptides, however experts highlight that Vitamin C products containing L-Ascorbic acid can reduce peptides effectivement because of its high acidity. In this case simply alternate (morning/evening) or space out your layering (e.g. 30 to 60 min in between products application).

What Brands Use Peptides In Their Products?

Who doesn’t? Should be the question. Most, if not all, skin care brands use peptides, from high to low budget ones. Some include:

  • Medik8 Liquid Peptide
  • The Inkey List Peptide Moisturiser
  • SkinCeuticals P-TIOX Serum
  • The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Ha Serum
  • Yepoda The Repair Hero Serum
  • Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum
  • Cetaphil Deep Hydration Refreshing Eye Serum
  • Paula’s Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer
  • ….

Should You Add Peptides To Your Skin Regimen?

Hard to say no. I think, like any actives addressing anti-aging concerns (among others), you can easily get overwhelmed by the range of products out there. That being said, peptides seem to be easy to incorporate as they are often featured in product categories you’d use anyway, I’m essentially thinking of moisturizers and serums. So if you know which types of peptides will help support your skin goals, you’re off to a good start. I first started using peptides in my morning routine with a moisturiser (the Inkey List one listed above). As always, do your research and if you’re unsure, talk to a professional dermatologist.