What Are Growth Factors? Benefits, Science & How to Use

Read time: 4 minutes
molecules
Photo by Levis Pelusi (Source)

Growth factors are not new to the skincare industry. They date back to the 50s, when they were first discovered by two scientists—a discovery that earned them a Nobel Prize in the 1980s—before starting to appear in cosmetic products in the 90s.

If you’re an avid skincare consumer and/or starting to look for anti-aging products, you’ve surely seen the term growth factors. Designed to support our skin health, Growth Factors (or GFs) seem to be the new hot active ingredient since the buzz of hyaluronic acid or vitamin C. So what are Growth Factors, and how good are they for our skin? Let’s find out!

What Are GFs and What Are Their Skincare Benefits?

In short, growth factors in skincare are proteins that help repair and renew the skin by boosting cell regeneration and collagen production. Our body naturally produces growth factors. They are large proteins that float between cells, delivering crucial messages related to growth, healing, and survival. So when you injure your skin, GFs will come to the rescue to heal your wound.

Nicolas Travis, the founder of Allies of Skin (a brand I’m obsessed with!), and also a biochemist and pharmaceutical scientist, summarizes it perfectly: “[GFs] facilitate skin rejuvenation by acting like personal trainers and stimulating the skin’s natural repair process. By supplementing your skincare routine with growth factors, you induce skin to stimulate collagen production and reduce inflammation without needing to sustain an injury or wound to do so.” —Sounds dreamy, no?

Cosmetic lab
Photo by Louis Reed (Source)

How Many Types of Growth Factors Are There?

Intrigued by the ‘s’ in “factors”? Me too. There are multiple families of growth factors, each containing specific types of GFs that, as I understand it, serve a particular purpose. I’m not a scientist, so I won’t dive too deep into this complex topic. However, according to my readings and the benefits most highlighted by brands using GFs (cell rejuvenation, collagen production), a few GFs families seem to be commonly used in skincare:

  • Epidermal Growth Factor (EGFs): Stimulates cell growth and renewal, for a healthier skin surface.
  • Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGFs): Promotes collagen production, improving skin firmness and elasticity.
  • Platelet-Derived Growth Factor (PDGFs): Supports wound healing and can reduce the appearance of scars.

Interestingly, from the 2010s to 2018, you could still find articles raising concerns about EGFs. Some misconceptions seem to have been put to rest, except, possibly, how well the GFs actually penetrate the skin. Maybe that will be the subject of another article. In the meantime, now you know why we talk about growth factors plural.

chemist lab
Photo by Hans Reniers (Source)

Which Ingredients Do Growth Factors Pair Well With?

GFs can be found in a wide range of product types, from serums to face masks. They will work well with many other actives such as:

  • Retinoids for anti-aging benefits. If you can’t tolerate retinoids, experts say GFs can be a great alternative for you. For example, if you don’t tolerate retinol well on your neck, GFs could be a great option.
  • Vitamin C for anti-aging and collagen promotion. Note: if you are using L-Ascorbic acid (the purest vitamin C type), dermatologists suggest layering the two actives. L-ascorbic acid is often formulated at a low pH, which is said to block growth factors. They recommend layering your vitamin C first and waiting before applying your GFs product.
  • Hyaluronic Acid for a hydration boost.

Growth factors also pair well with tranexamic acid, arbutin, Kojic acid, and azelaic acid, helping your skin fight pigmentation.

What about AHAs/BHAs? Same as Vitamin C, experts recommend layering or alternating these products with GFs as they could degrade growth factors, reducing their effectiveness. An easy way to incorporate GFs if you are using AHAs and BHA’s could be to: apply them at different times of day, alternate days to minimize potential interaction or layer your products allowing time between each application.

Hot Products on the Block Containing Growth Factors

If you want to get started with GF and add it to your skincare routine, here are some products I keep seeing:

  • Allies Of Skin Multi Peptides & Growth Factors Advanced Lifting Serum
  • The Ordinary GF 15% Solution
  • Perricone MD High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum
  • SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Neuro-Peptide Serum
  • The INKEY List- 15% Vitamin C and EGF Serum
  • BIOEFFECT EGF Hydrating Essence

So… Should You Use Products with Growth Factors?

I am personally intrigued, and I’m looking forward to trying the Allies of Skin GFs serum. But that’s just me! If you want to give it a go, or if you’re unsure or prefer to check with your dermatologist, don’t hesitate to do so. And if you pass on the whole growth-factor trend, there are plenty of other actives that will help you age gracefully/target some of your skin concerns. Especially if you wear sunscreen—the absolute best anti-aging product you can buy!