What Are Growth Factors?

Growth factors are not new to the skincare industry, in fact they date back from the 50’s when they were first discovered by two scientists – which got them a Nobel Prize in the 80’s, before they started to appear in cosmetic products in the 90’s. If you’re an avid skin-care consumer or in your 30s and starting to look for anti-aging products, you have surely seen the term growth factors. Designed to support our skin health, Growth Factors or GFs seem to be the new hot active since the breakthrough of hyaluronic acid or vitamin C. So what are the Growth Factors and how good are they for our skin? Let’s find out!

What are GFs and what are their skincare benefits?¶

In short, growth factors in skincare are a protein that helps repair and renew skin by boosting cell regeneration and collagen production. Our body naturally produces growth factors. In the context of skincare, GFs are essential for wound healing and tissue repair. So if you injure your skin, GFs will be your skin's best friends.

The founder of Allies of Skin Nicolas Travis (a brand I’m obsessed with), also a biochemist and pharmaceutical scientist summarizes it even better: “[GFs] facilitate skin rejuvenation by acting like personal trainers and stimulating the skin’s natural repair process. By supplementing your skincare routine with growth factors, you induce skin to stimulate collagen production and reduce inflammation without needing to sustain an injury or wound to do so.” – Sounds dreamy, no?

How many types of growth factors are there?¶

Intrigued by the ‘s’ in factors? Me too. There are a multitude of growth factors’ families. Each contains specific types of GFs that, as I understand it, have a specific purpose. I am not a scientist so I am not going to dive deeper in this complex topic, however according to my readings and the benefits most highlighted by brands using GFs (cell rejuvenation, collagen production), a few GFs families seem to be commonly used in skincare:

• Epidermal Growth Factor (EGFs): Stimulates cell growth and renewal, for a healthier skin surface.
• Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGFs): Promotes collagen production, improving skin firmness and elasticity.
• Platelet-Derived Growth Factor (PDGFs): Supports wound healing and can reduce the appearance of scars.

Interestingly, back in the 2010’s to 2018 you could still land on articles raising concerns about EGFs. Some misconceptions that seem to have been put to rest, except, possibly, how well the GFs actually penetrate the skin. Maybe that will be the object of another article in the meantime, now you know why we talk about growth factors plural.

Which ingredients do growth factors pair well with?¶

GFs can be found in a wide range of product types from serums to face masks. They will work well with many other actives such as:

• Retinoids for anti-aging benefits. If you can’t tolerate retinoids, experts say GFs can be a great alternative for you. Let’s say you don’t tolerate retinol well on your neck, GFs could be a great option.
• Vitamin C for anti-aging and collagen promotion. Note: if you are using L-Ascorbic acid (the purest vitamin C type), dermatologists suggest layering the two actives. L-ascorbic acid is often formulated at a low pH, which can block growth factors. They recommend to layer your vitamin C first and wait before applying your GFs product.
• Hyaluronic Acid for an hydration boost.

According to experts, growth factors also pair well with tranexamic acid, arbutin, Kojic acid and azelaic acid helping your skin fight pigmentation.

What about AHAs/BHAs? Same as Vitamin C, experts recommend layering or alternating these products with GFs as they could degrade growth factors, reducing their effectiveness. An easy way to incorporate GFs if you are using AHAs and BHA’s could be to apply them at different times of day, alternate days to minimize potential interaction or layer your products allowing time between each application.

Hot products on the block containing growth factors¶

If you want to get started with GF and add it to your skincare routine, here’s some products I keep on seeing:

• Allies Of Skin Multi Peptides & Growth Factors Advanced Lifting Serum
• The Ordinary GF 15% Solution
• Perricone MD High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum
• SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Neuro-Peptide Serum
• The INKEY List- 15% Vitamin C and EGF Serum
• BIOEFFECT EGF Hydrating Essence

So… should you use products with growth factors?¶

I am personally intrigued and I’m looking forward to trying the Allies of Skin GF serum. But that’s just me! If you want to give it a go or if you’re unsure / prefer to check with your dermatologist, don’t hesitate to do so. And if you pass on the whole growth-factor trend, there are plenty of other actives that will help you age gracefully. Especially if you wear sunscreen, the absolute best anti-aging product you can buy!