Active Ingredients 101

Actives, actives and actives! Don't get fooled by the hype around some brands, if the product label doesn't scream active ingredients, your chances to effectively target your skin concerns or support your skin type will be thin. So what active ingredients are commonly used in skincare and what do they do? Here's your active ingredients 101.

Black beauty
Photo by Autumn Goodman (Source)

Acne & Oil Control Crew

They help unclog pores, reduce sebum, calm inflammation, and fight acne-causing bacteria.

  • Salicylic Acid (BHA) – exfoliates inside pores
  • Benzoyl Peroxide – antibacterial for acne
  • Niacinamide – controls oil, improves skin texture
  • Azelaic Acid – anti-inflammatory & anti-pigmentation
  • Sulfur – absorbs oil, dries out pimples
  • Tea Tree Oil – natural antibacterial
  • Zinc PCA – reduces sebum, antibacterial
  • LHA (Lipo-Hydroxy Acid) – gentle, targeted exfoliant (a derivative of salicylic acid)
  • Witch Hazel – astringent, controls oil (can be drying)
  • Green Tea Extract (EGCG) – antioxidant + sebum regulation
  • Willow Bark Extract – natural BHA-like exfoliant

Hydration & Skin Barrier Heroes

They support moisture retention, barrier repair, and calm sensitive skin.

  • Hyaluronic Acid (HA) – draws moisture into skin
  • Glycerin – humectant, deeply hydrates
  • Ceramides – replenish and protect the skin barrier
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) – soothes + hydrates
  • Squalane – hydrating lightweight oil that mimics our skin's natural oils
  • Urea – hydrates + gently exfoliates
  • Allantoin – calms and softens
  • Aloe Vera – hydrates + calms irritation
  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E) – moisturizes + protects the skin barrier
  • Cholesterol – lipid component for barrier support

Brightening Boosters

They help fade hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and post-inflammatory marks.

  • Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) – antioxidant + skin brightener
  • Alpha Arbutin – reduces hyperpigmentation + skin brightener
  • Kojic Acid – reduces hyperpigmentation + helps with melasma and sun damage
  • Licorice Root Extract – brightens + soothes
  • Tranexamic Acid – targets melasma and dark spots
  • Glutathione – antioxidant + helps maintain an even skin tone
  • Niacinamide – also supports the skin's brightness
  • Mandelic Acid – gentle exfoliation + pigmentation fade
  • Lactic Acid – hydrating AHA that evens skin tone
  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – stable Vitamin C derivative
  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – hydrating, gentle Vitamin C
  • Mulberry Extract – inhibits melanin + antioxidant

Anti-Aging All Stars

They boost collagen, smooth fine lines, and speed up cell turnover.

  • Retinol – increases cell turnover
  • Tretinoin / Retinoic Acid – prescription strength Vitamin A
  • Retinaldehyde – potent, less irritating retinoid
  • Bakuchiol – retinol alternative (gentle)
  • Peptides (e.g. Matrixyl 3000, Argireline) – signal skin to produce collagen
  • Growth Factors (e.g. Epidermal Growth Factor or EGF) – support cell repair
  • Glycolic Acid (AHA) – deep exfoliation
  • Lactic Acid (AHA) – hydrating exfoliant
  • Mandelic Acid – gentle AHA, good for sensitive skin
  • Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) – gentle, hydrating exfoliants
  • Resveratrol – antioxidant that protects against aging

SPF & Antioxidants Squad

They defend your skin against UV rays, pollution, and oxidative stress caused by free radicals.

  • Zinc Oxide – physical UVA/UVB filter
  • Titanium Dioxide – physical UV blocker
  • Vitamin E (Tocopherol) – antioxidant + moisturizer
  • Ferulic Acid – boosts the stability of Vitamin C & E
  • Green Tea Extract – antioxidant protection
  • Lycopene – antioxidant that protects against sun damage
  • Niacinamide – also an antioxidant and barrier-supporting active
  • Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) – protects cells from oxidative damage

The Bottom Line

  • Just like with food, some skincare ingredients can be qualified as “super actives” — multitaskers that can target a variety of concerns at once.
  • If you have sensitive skin, always patch test when introducing a new active.
  • Don't overload your routine—start with 1–2 actives at a time and progressively increase the formulation strength when applicable.
  • Avoid mixing too many actives at once, some don't pair well together—alternate instead (day/evening).
  • SPF is a must (yes, also in Winter!) and especially if using acids/retinol
  • Formulation matters—not all ingredients work well at all pH levels or in all textures.

Now that you know what the most common active ingredients in skincare are, you'll be unbeatable at decoding a product label.