Active Ingredients 101

Actives, actives and actives! Don't get fooled by the hype around some brands, if the product label doesn't scream active ingredients, your chances to effectively target your skin concerns or support your skin type will be thin. So what active ingredients are commonly used in skincare and what do they do? Here's your active ingredients 101.

Acne & Oil Control Crew

They help unclog pores, reduce sebum, calm inflammation, and fight acne-causing bacteria.

  • Salicylic Acid (BHA) – exfoliates inside pores
  • Benzoyl Peroxide – antibacterial for acne
  • Niacinamide – controls oil, reduces pores
  • Azelaic Acid – anti-inflammatory & anti-pigmentation
  • Sulfur – absorbs oil, dries out pimples
  • Tea Tree Oil – natural antibacterial
  • Zinc PCA – reduces sebum, antibacterial
  • LHA (Lipo-Hydroxy Acid) – gentle, targeted exfoliant
  • Witch Hazel – astringent, controls oil (can be drying)
  • Green Tea Extract (EGCG) – antioxidant + sebum regulation
  • Willow Bark Extract – natural BHA-like exfoliant

Hydration & Skin Barrier Heroes

They support moisture retention, barrier repair, and calm sensitive skin.

  • Hyaluronic Acid (HA) – draws moisture into skin
  • Glycerin – humectant, deeply hydrates
  • Ceramides – replenish lipid barrier
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) – soothes + hydrates
  • Squalane – lightweight oil
  • Urea – hydrates + gently exfoliates
  • Allantoin – calms and softens
  • Aloe Vera – hydrates + calms irritation
  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E) – moisturizes + protects barrier
  • Cholesterol – lipid component for barrier support

Brightening Boosters

They help fade hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and post-inflammatory marks.

  • Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) – antioxidant + skin brightener
  • Alpha Arbutin – gentle tyrosinase inhibitor
  • Kojic Acid – reduces melanin production
  • Licorice Root Extract – brightens + soothes
  • Tranexamic Acid – targets melasma and spots
  • Glutathione – antioxidant + skin tone evening
  • Niacinamide – also brightens discoloration
  • Mandelic Acid – gentle exfoliation + pigmentation fade
  • Lactic Acid – hydrating AHA that evens skin tone
  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – stable Vitamin C derivative
  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – hydrating, gentle Vitamin C
  • Mulberry Extract – inhibits melanin

Anti-Aging All Stars

They boost collagen, smooth fine lines, and speed up cell turnover.

  • Retinol – increases cell turnover
  • Tretinoin / Retinoic Acid – prescription strength Vitamin A
  • Retinaldehyde – potent, less irritating retinoid
  • Bakuchiol – retinol alternative (gentle)
  • Peptides (e.g. Matrixyl 3000, Argireline) – signal skin to produce collagen
  • Growth Factors (e.g. Epidermal Growth Factor or EGF) – support cell repair
  • Glycolic Acid (AHA) – deep exfoliation
  • Lactic Acid (AHA) – hydrating exfoliant
  • Mandelic Acid – gentle AHA, good for sensitive skin
  • Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) – gentle, hydrating exfoliants
  • Resveratrol – antioxidant that protects against aging

SPF & Antioxidants Squad

They defend your skin against UV rays, pollution, and oxidative stress caused by free radicals.

  • Zinc Oxide – physical UVA/UVB filter
  • Titanium Dioxide – physical UV blocker
  • Vitamin E (Tocopherol) – antioxidant + moisturizes
  • Ferulic Acid – boosts stability of Vitamin C & E
  • Green Tea Extract – antioxidant protection
  • Lycopene – carotenoid antioxidant
  • Niacinamide – also antioxidant and barrier-supporting active
  • Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) – protects cells from oxidative damage

The Bottom Line

  • Just like with food, some skincare ingredients are “super actives” — multitaskers that can target a variety of concerns at once.
  • If you have sensitive skin, always patch test when introducing a new active.
  • Don't overload your routine—start with 1–2 actives at a time and progressively increase the formulation strength when applicable.
  • Avoid mixing too many actives at once, some don't pair well together—alternate instead (day/evening).
  • SPF is a must (yes also in Winter!) and especially if using acids/retinol
  • Formulation matters—not all ingredients work well at all pH levels or in all textures.

Now that you know what are the most common active ingredients in skincare, you'll be unbeatable at decoding your products labels.