How To Read A Skincare Product Label Like A Pro: A Simple Guide To Become A Better Skincare Buyer

If you’ve ever stared at a label with 20+ ingredients or felt skeptical reading words like "natural" or “dermatology-tested," you're not alone. I remember one summer chatting about cosmetic ingredients with a friend who wasn't sure if the product she bought was worth it or not, and I found myself proudly saying, “Bring me your product, I’ll check the label and let you know if it’s any good!” Understanding skincare formulations can feel like decoding a foreign language, but once you get the basics down, it’s very empowering. Here are some tips on how to read a skincare product label and the logic behind the INCI list, so you can become a smarter skincare buyer.

1. Understand Your Skin Goals¶

Before you even flip the packaging over, get clear on what you want to treat:

• Acne?
• Hyperpigmentation?
• Fine lines and wrinkles?
• Dryness?

Knowing your skin concern(s) will help you know what active ingredients to look for. Don’t fall for “hydrating” or “glow-boosting” unless the ingredient list supports those claims.

2. Get To Know The INCI List: What It Is & Why It Matters¶

The INCI list (short for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the official ingredient list you'll find on all skincare products. Created in the 70s by the Personal Care Products Council, it ensures labeling consistency across countries. By regulation, it must list every ingredient used, usually in descending order of concentration (=potency).

But here's the challenge: INCI lists look like a chemistry textbook with scientific or Latin-based names, which can be confusing for consumers—the good news is, it's manageable! With time, you’ll start recognizing familiar names.

Here’s how to make sense of it:

• Scientific names are used to keep things standardized internationally and are precise, for example:
  • Aqua = water / Sodium hyaluronate = Hyaluronic acid (hydrating) / Tocopherol = Vitamin E (antioxidant) / Ascorbic acid = Vitamin C (brightening, antioxidant)
• Botanical names are sometimes followed by the common name in brackets, e.g., Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter
• Active ingredients like retinol, niacinamide, or salicylic acid might appear lower on the list due to their potency even in small amounts.
• Fragrance can sometimes be labeled as "Parfum" or "Aroma" and may be followed by allergen disclosures in Europe.

Tip: The INCI list is your best friend for ingredient transparency. Ignore vague marketing terms and read the INCI. You can use websites like INCI Decoder to break down what each ingredient does and whether it fits your skin needs.

3. Understand The Order Of Ingredients¶

As mentioned, the INCI usually lists ingredients from highest to lowest concentration. The first five ingredients often form the product’s base and should match the product’s claims (e.g., hydrating, anti-aging, etc.).

For example, if you’re buying a hydrating serum, ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or aloe vera should appear toward the top. However, some powerful actives like salicylic acid or retinol are effective at low percentages, so you will sometimes see them appear near the bottom. Additionally, ingredients present at concentrations below 1% can be listed in any order after the first few, so don’t panic if an active seems slightly out of place—it might still be in a clinically effective dose.

Tip: If a product promotes an ingredient like “Vitamin C” but it’s barely on the list and/or no percentage is shown, you might not be getting much of it.

4. Spot The Key Actives¶

Look for proven active ingredients that address your skin concern(s) and look for them in the INCI list:

• Acne: e.g. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, sulfur, zinc PCA…
• Hyperpigmentation: e.g. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), tranexamic acid, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, azelaic acid…
• Anti-aging: e.g., Retinol, peptides, bakuchiol, antioxidants (vitamin C, E)...
• Hydration: e.g., Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol, squalane…
• Barrier repair: e.g., Ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, oat extract…

Tip: When scanning the label, you’re essentially trying to identify whether these actives are included and if they’re present in a useful amount. If a product claims to do something, the INCI list should reflect that.

5. Watch Out For Common Irritants¶

These may vary depending on your skin type, but the INCI list also reveals potential irritants that may not be suitable for everyone.

• Parfum/Fragrance: Can be irritating, especially in higher concentrations. Manufacturers are not required to transparently list what these umbrella terms include exactly. This can be a challenge for individuals with allergies and/or sensitivities to given chemicals. If this sounds like you, patch test!
• Essential Oils: Like Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) or Citrus limon (lemon), may irritate even if natural. Never apply essential oils directly on your skin; they are highly concentrated and can cause skin burns, irritation, and increase photosensitivity.
• Alcohols: Drying ones like Alcohol denat or Ethanol (different from fatty alcohols like Cetyl alcohol, which are hydrating) can trigger irritation.
• Silicones & Comedogenic Oils: May clog pores for some people, and are not always indicated. e.g., coconut oil, isopropyl palmitate, or cocoa butter aren't recommended if you’re acne-prone.

6. Don’t Let Buzzwords Fool You¶

I’m a marketer myself and understand the logic behind creating claims that trigger consumers’ interest. After all, that's the essence of marketing. Nonetheless, like many consumers, I like to make informed decisions when I buy products, especially when it comes to skincare. The front of the bottle is often the skincare version of clickbait. Here’s how to stay sharp:

• “Clean”, “Natural”, “Non-Toxic”: These are mainly marketing terms with no clear legal definition or regulation, including in Europe. If you have a preference for more naturally sourced ingredients, look for regulated certifications for organic cosmetics. In Europe, these include, for example: COSMOS, NATRUE, and Ecocert.
• “Dermatologist-tested”: It doesn’t necessarily mean "Dermatologist Approved". You get small or no insights on how the study was conducted, who conducted these tests, and under what conditions.
• “Non-comedogenic”: It shouldn't clog pores in theory, but it's not a guarantee for everyone. I know, let’s brace ourselves… That being said, you’re probably better off prioritizing products that claim to be non-comedogenic if you’re acne-prone, but exceptions do exist.
• “Hypoallergenic”: In the US, the term is not regulated. In Europe, however, the term is regulated (Regulation (EU) No 655/2013). In essence, the term can be used "in cases where the cosmetic product has been designed to minimize its allergenic potential". However, the EU also specifies that it “does not guarantee a complete absence of risk of an allergic reaction and the product should not give the impression that it does”.

Tip: The best way to decode these types of claims will be the INCI list. So flip the box! And for claims such as "hypoallergenic," know that a 100% guarantee does not exist, so patch test or seek medical advice.

7. Concentrations Matter (when listed)¶

Some brands include percentages of actives on the label, and you might have guessed it, these are by far my favorite ones. This is helpful to get a clearer idea of strength. In general, lower concentrations will be ideal for beginners, while medium to high concentrations will be indicated for experienced users of a given active. I tend to go for mid to high concentration actives because I tolerate them well, but I did compromise my skin barrier in the past and learnt from those mishaps.

The following adjustments can help:

• Introduce the product slowly e.g., x1 a week or every other week
• Scale back on the concentration %
• Simply remove the active from your routine if none of the above agree with your skin. Look for an alternative ingredient with the same benefits

Here’s a quick cheat sheet of common actives and their concentration levels:

• Niacinamide: 2–5% is often great for beginners, while 10% or more can work for some, but may irritate others. I’m personally using a 25% niacinamide serum a few times a week and have no irritation.
• Salicylic Acid: 0.5–2% is the sweet spot for acne. Most people, even beginners, can start at 2%.
• L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C): This is the most potent form of Vitamin C. A concentration between 10% to 15% is often recommended for most skin types. However, I read once that a lower potency is not as effective, so if you don’t tolerate this range, you might want to try other types of Vitamin C. If you tolerate it well and have been using L-ascorbic for many years, like me, definitely go higher! I’m currently using a serum with 30% L-ascorbic acid and won't go lower anymore.
• Retinol: 0.25% to 1% is common for visible results without overwhelming the skin. You may notice that you tolerate a retinol product differently depending on the skin area where you apply it. E.g. 1% is well tolerated on your face / the top of your hands (yes you can should!) but too strong for your neck, where the skin tends to be thinner and more sensitive–Don't hesitate to use different strengths of the same product depending on the skin zone if you can.

Tip: Higher doesn’t always mean better, especially if you’re new to actives. Consistency is key, but if you can and want to try higher concentrations, go for it. Last but not least, remember to always use SPF as most actives increase photosensitivity, but above all, there’s no point spending your money on products if you don’t wear sunscreen e-ve-ry-day. This is the best anti-aging product and sun damage protection product out there.

8. Look at Expiry, Storage & Packaging Info¶

• PAO symbol (Period After Opening): Look for the jar symbol with a number like "6M" or "12M". This means the product is good for 6 or 12 months after opening
• Expiration date: Especially important for actives like vitamin C or sunscreen
• Packaging: Dark bottles and pumps protect unstable ingredients like retinol and L-ascorbic acid from air and light better

Should You Start Reading Product Labels?¶

A thousand percent yes! Mastering the art of reading a skincare label, especially the INCI list, gives you a massive advantage and let’s be honest, a label detective je ne sais quoi that I find very cool. You understand what’s actually inside your product, which brands prioritize actives and which aren’t, or whether it will help or harm your skin goals. And trust me, once you get the hang of it, it’s kind of addicting.